Celebrating a Particular Occasion with Jewelry
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The Jewelry Hut
Engagement and Wedding Rings, The Purchasing Guide
Engagement Rings and Wedding Rings via the Ages
Engagement and Wedding ring traditions
- The middle ages set the stage for betrothal traditions
As early as the 15th century, the diamonds, even though only on the market to a highly couple of, was prized above all others as the gem for betrothal, It was acknowledged as the ultimate symbol considering of its unique properties, particularly its capability to resist destructive forces.
In 1477, one of the very first recorded accounts of the use of diamond was discovered in a betrothal. Desiring to please his prospective father-in-law, Archduke Maximilian of Austria proposed to Mary of Burgundy, heeding the words of a trusted adviser who wrote: "At the betrothal your grace must have a ring set with a diamond and also a gold ring."
Maximilian wed his beloved Mary within 24 hours of the betrothal ceremony. Therefore began a tradition that has spanned centuries. At the time of Mary and Maximilian, goldsmiths sometimes employed thin, flat pieces of diamond known as "hohback" diamonds that had "cleaved" (split) from a natural diamond crystal. The imaginative jeweler could develop intricate and interesting details employing hogbacks, such as the stunning letter "M" you see in Mary's ring. Diamonds in their natural crystal form had been also utilised. Definitely this was in part simply because it was the hardest natural substance known and man lacked understanding and skill to cut it. But maybe there was much more to it than that. Diamond crystals appear like two pyramids joined together base to base. From the time of the Pharaohs, the shape of the pyramid was identified with energy, and mystery, so the "pyramidal" shape of the diamond crystal itself might have added to diamond's allure, to the mystery and power identified with it. The incredibly shape of the natural diamond crystal could have produced it all the additional appealing as the choice to symbolized the power of like and marriage.
One could feel that employing an uncut diamond would have detracted from the beauty of these early rings. Nonetheless, this was not the case. Medieval goldsmiths used imagination and ingenuity to create gorgeous mountings to hold the diamond crystal. Ornate and complicated settings distinguished by elaborate enamel detail made up for the somewhat crude condition of the rough diamonds they held.
At the identical time, the inside of the ring took on added significance as the "posy" ring gained reputation. These rings had been known for the little poems and romantic messages inscribed inside the hoop of the ring, a tradition that has continued until at present, while with inscription somewhat much more concise than the poems of olds!
The initially considerable breakthrough in diamond cutting methods occurred by the finish of the 15th century, enabling a cutter to apply the initial "facet" cut to the natural diamond crystal. These early cut diamonds were known as table cut due to the fact the big, flat facet resembled the best of a table. This was the initial step toward diamond cutting and polishing, and the first step in unlocking the diamond's hidden fire, brilliance, and dazzling beauty.
- Sixteenth century craftsmen reach new heights
The table cut diamond became a excellent challenge to the goldsmiths of the 16th century as they strove to make styles that could exhibit the rare stone to it fullest possible. As they refined their art with the full assistance of the royal court, their efforts reached a peak of perfection. The outcomes are masterpieces of delicate design and fine enameling, combined with pointed or table cut stones. An impressive example is the wedding ring of Duke Albrecht V of bavaria, a rosette set with sixteen smaller diamonds.
Renaissance Jewish Wedding Rings
Some of the most stunning and intricate rings ever produced were those associated with the Jewish wedding ceremony for the duration of the Renaissance period. These Jewish wedding rings, nonetheless, were utilised only throughout the wedding ceremony, as they had been far too unwieldy for every day wear. In lots of of these elaborately ornamented rings, the bezel took the form of a gabled developing, a synagogue, or Solomon's Temple. They were further enhanced with extensive detailing in enamel, as well as Hebrew inscriptions.
The Gimmel Ring
The growing technical know how of Renaissance goldsmiths also made a new style of marriage ring called gimmel, from the Latin gemelli, which means twins. The gimmel, or twin ring, has two hoops (often 3) that fan open from a pivot at the base. When, they open, they regularly contained intricately sculptured types symbolizing eternity by making use of figures that represented each life and death. When shut, the hoops slid together so perfectly that only a single ring could be observed. The gimmel ring therefore symbolized the coming together of two lives really as 1. When three hoops had been applied, the third symbolized the presence of God in the marriage. This symbolic allusion to marriage was further emphasized by an inscription on the hoop taken from the marriage service: "Whom God Has Joined Together Let No Man Put Asunder." Martin Luther and Catherine Bora were married with an inscribed gimmel ring.
Around 1600, the gimmel began to incorporate a further romantic symbol two clasped hands. In the ring recognized as the fede (Italian for faith), the gimmel hoops ended in hands which, when the ring was closed, joined together. An additional symbol was also added in this period a heart, and in some of the elaborate fede rings we acquire delicately enameled hands embracing a sumptuous diamond heart.
In addition to its prevalence in the fede ring, the symbol of the heart was particularly popular in 17th century rings. This natural symbol of appreciate and romance was sometimes depicted "aflame with desire," incorporating rose and table cut diamonds or colored gems.
At this time we also see a reaction against the escalating use of rings, especially the extra elaborate examples. In contrast to an atmosphere in which pricey symbols of romance were fashionable, the Puritans, rebelling against Church ritual, attempted, unsuccessfully, to abolish wedding ring. This test of tradition ultimately proved that the symbolism surrounding the custom of the wedding ring was too effective to be destroyed!
The tradition of the "Fourth Finger"
Wedding rings of the 17th century were regularly worn on the thumb. In the course of the marriage ceremony, having said that, the fourth finger was most frequently used. There are differing theories as to the origin for the tradition of placing the ring on the fourth finger. According to 1 source, the custom stems from the Christian wedding service in which the priest arrives at the fourth finger right after touching three fingers of the left hand: "In the Name of the Father ... Son ... and Holy Ghost." A more romantic legend that harkens back to Egyptian occasions holds that the fourth finger of the left hand follows the "vena amoris" (vein of like), a vein that was believed to run from that finger directly to the heart. The extra practical explanation is that the fourth finger is the most protected finger, so by placing the ring there, one could preferred stay clear of damage to it.
- In the Eighteen century diamonds abound
The 18th century produced a sparkling assortment of betrothal and wedding rings. The discovery of diamonds in Brazil dramatically elevated the supply so that diamond jewelry became widely offered. Simultaneously, improved candle lighting increased the quantity of social events held in the evening, when sparkling diamonds could be admired to the fullest. A woman appearing with the fingers glittering with diamonds reflected the height of fashion. Offering sufficient diamond jewelry became the key preoccupation of the 18th century jeweler.
Polishing techniques underwent improvement to meet the demand for glittering stones, and the rose cut was replaced by an early version of the round, brilliant cut. Settings had been pared down to show significantly more of the diamond, and silver settings had been produced to enhanced the diamond's white sparkle. Stones also had been commonly backed with metallic foil to add higher brilliance and sparkle, or to emphasize or boost color red foil to boost the red ruby, green foil emerald, and so on.
Mid-eighteen century introduces diamond "keeper ring"
By mid-eighteen century, jewelry design began to show the effects of the fanciful rococo spirit. Colored gems (such as colored diamonds) became increasingly well-known and the stones themselves increasingly became centerpiece of the design, specifically when utilized in combination with white diamonds. In keeping with its romantic tradition, the heart motifs was particularly widely used, normally set with each white and colored diamonds, and colored gems such as ruby. Delicate, feminine jewelry of this type expressed the elegant and refined taste of the time.
Rings that symbolized love and romance had been cherished, particularly the betrothal ring. In 1761, King George III of England started what was to grow to be a well known tradition when he presented Queen Charlotte a diamond keeper ring on their wedding day. This was a rather simple diamond band worn on the finger subsequent to the engagement ring to defend it and, perhaps, the marriage itself. The symbolism of the diamond was indestructible and would shield the unending circle represented eternity. We uncover a contemporary version of Queen Charlotte's keeper ring in today's diamond wedding or anniversary band, a band that in most cases consists of a single row of diamonds encircling the finger.
- The Nineteen Century: Forerunners of contemporary traditions
At the begin of the 19th century, the idealized status of woman was reflected in the style of their jewelry pretty, feminine, and sentimental. Symbols of adore hearts, crowns, flowers, followed them from the prior century. But as the century progressed, jewelry began to play a far more fundamental role and increasingly became a status symbol in 19th century society. The Industrial revolution provided greater wealth for even more consumers than ever ahead of. Males could now afford extravagant gifts for the woman they loved. Gem-studded jewelry became the favored choice. Diamonds had been increasingly in demand but till the last quarter of the century provide remained exceptionally limited, so they were nonetheless accessible to only a couple of. Then, in 8170, provide greatly increased when a important diamond deposit was discovered on the African continent. Diamond, the gem that most could only dream about, suddenly became on the market for a far wider public.
And so, with the wealthy new provide of diamonds the 19th century would see the diamond's full beauty revealed. The supply of rough diamonds from Africa not only influenced availability and jewelry style, but also resulted in higher experimentation with cutting and polishing. Soon diamonds showed a actually exclusive beauty they began to exhibit a brilliance and fire unknown in any other gem. Therefore, set alone, the glorious diamond became the height of fashion.
For the duration of the 19th century, Queen Victoria was the most avid collector and visible promoter of the jewelry of the period. She not only maintained an immense collection, but spent several thousands of pounds with her Court jeweler, Garrard. In 1850, she excitedly accepted the magnificent 105.602 carats Koh-i-Noor (the largest in the globe at that time), a gift form the East India Enterprise.
- The Twentieth century and the Tiffany setting
Dramatic modifications in jewelry design took location in the late 19th century. As the role of woman changed from docile and demure to increasingly robust and independent, jewelry correspondingly became larger, bolder, and alot more assertive. Then, in reaction to the boldness, a romantic, freethinking spirit emerged in the form of what came to be referred to as Art Nouveau. This movement brought a fluid delicacy back to design that continued into the early 20th century. And, as diamonds continued to be the central element in rings of really like, it was the best environment to introduce the revolutionary new "Tiffany mount" at the close of the 19th century. This exciting setting began a tradition for the diamond solitaire (a ring with a single large stone at the center) that carried into the 20th century and continues to be the most well-known option for the engagement ring.
Tiffany, the well-known New York jeweler, invented a dramatic "open" mount. In this innovative setting, the stone was held up prominently by six tiny prongs (like little fingers). This setting allowed the fullest quantity of light to enter the gemstone, so that it could exhibit maximum brilliance and sparkle. In contrast to old style settings, which concealed most of the stone (and countless of its flaws), the new Tiffany style revealed the diamond fully, along with its overall top quality the cut, color, and clarity of the diamond was now clearly visible and could be fully appreciated.
At present, contemporary cutting and polishing approaches have been refined and enable the full beauty of a diamond to be revealed as light radiated from each of its facets. Modern day materials such as platinum and new alloys have also provided higher freedom in style and setting, opening up fresh new vistas for 20th century craftsmen. Style now concentrates a great deal more on discovering the proper balance in between individual style and emphasis on the gemstone.
The skill of present day jewelry designers continue to delight lovers with exquisite new ways of presenting the gemstone of their selection and incorporating the symbolism and traditions of centuries. When today's bride receives her engagement and wedding rings, she will develop into connected to men and women in really like in each past and future generations. She will grow to be component of a tradition of adore that has spanned centuries.
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